Castello Luigi –  a diamond among Swiss wineries

A quarter of a century ago, while I was working as a sommelier at the 3-star Michelin restaurant “L’Hôtel de Ville” in Crissier near Lausanne, I discovered the marvelous wines from the Tessin region by the Zanini family: Vinattieri. During this period, I met Luigi Zanini Senior on several occasions. Since then, Vinattieri has been sold, and the Zanini family started a new vineyard: Castello Luigi. A few months back, I got in touch with Nicola Fiorenza, the Sales Director of Castello Luigi, to introduce the Vinesia project and explore potential collaboration. Nicola and the Zanini family were instantly interested, and we decided to meet at the vineyard at the end of August 2023.

Castello Luigi is nestled in the mountains of Mendrisio, overlooking Lake Lugano, located in the southern Tessin, a Swiss enclave in Italy. It’s a stone’s throw from Lake Como to the east and Lake Maggiore to the west. The place is so remote that even my GPS couldn’t locate it, and I needed Nicola’s guidance over the phone. Eventually, I reached this quaint estate where the “Castle” majestically stands amidst its 3 hectares of terraced vineyards. The first terrace houses some chardonnay vines, the sole white grape of the estate, while further uphill lies a stunning terrace planted with cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot. Above that, there’s a third terrace spanning 6 more hectares dedicated to another of their wines: Belvédère. All of this is surrounded by olive trees, bougainvillea, cypresses, and other conifers.

I was warmly welcomed by Luigi Senior, his wife Liliane, their son Luigi Junior, and Nicola at the castle’s entrance. Luigi Senior explained that acquiring the permit for building the castle took over 10 years. The Zanini family, who have a deep love for fine wines, especially from Bordeaux, intended to construct a castle resembling Château Palmer, recognized for its four towers. Local authorities initially rejected the plan, but after negotiations, agreed to a design with just two towers. Hence, the castle has two towers, and the first wine named Castello Luigi was produced in 2007, two decades post vineyard planting.

The tour continued with Nicola and Luigi Junior, 51, the Managing Director and winemaker of Castello Luigi. I was able to snap some pictures outside, but upon entering the cellar, Luigi informed me that photography was off-limits. The cellars are closed to general visits, with only select partners given access. What an honor! I felt privileged. Vinesia was in the very heart of the best Swiss vineyard (as mentioned by Vinum and Schweizerische Weinzeitung). Interior photographs were provided by the estate.

The cellar’s heart is a spiral pathway plunging 18.5 meters underground, housing the 225-liter barrels, which are replaced by 80% every year, where the wines mature for several months. Apart from its calming visual appeal due to its minimalist angles, this deep architecture enables Luigi to process the wine from harvesting to bottling solely through gravity. This ensures the highest quality, preserving what nature offers. Their mountainside vineyard allows grapes to mature perfectly, with an amphitheatre-like layout facilitating wind circulation for optimal vine health. As a discerning winemaker, Luigi only begins the harvest when phenolic maturity – the peak maturity of grape tannins – is reached. The 2023 harvest is slated for late September to early October, by which time most of Luigi’s peers would have harvested by September 15th.

This meticulous process is evident in their wines: silky texture, rich body, refreshing zing, delicate structure, magnificent density, and finesse. The terroir gives the wine a depth and complexity that allows it to age gracefully. Primary aromas of black and red berries, and cherry (2019) blend with hints of white pepper, tapenade, and dried flowers (2017-2018). The 2009 exhibits a robust character befitting its sunny vintage, with tobacco, menthol, and thyme aromas enchanting the palate.

Meanwhile, the 2020 white (100% chardonnay), sampled alongside locally produced Bresaola, unfurled rich notes of candied lemon and fruit paste, balanced by a mineral freshness thanks to its limestone and sandy terroir.

The wines remind me of the renowned Bolgheri wines – Ornellaia and Sassicaia – but also of the illustrious Pontet-Canet in Pauillac. Such high benchmarks! Esteemed wine critics are also captivated by Castello Luigi’s offerings: René Gabriel, the global Bordeaux specialist, rated the vineyard 18/20, Stephan Reinhardt of The Wine Advocate scored it 94/100, and André Kunz of Schweizerische Zeitung awarded a perfect score of 20/20.

These precise and refined wines, produced in limited quantities of 6,000 to 7,000 bottles annually, are in such demand that the Zanini family can handpick their distributors. We, at Vinesia, are honored to be part of this exclusive club and source our wines directly from Castello Luigi.

Thank you, Liliane, Luigi Sr, Luigi Jr, and Nicola.

*A month after Fabrice’s visit, the estate received the rare rating of “Tre Bicchieri” (three glasses, the highest rating) in the world-renowned Gambero Rosso guide, which stands for excellence, and has become a global benchmark among wine collectors and buyers. What a privilege to be able to offer those exquisite wines for your investment!